Lattice Training podcast

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Jaap de Roode: Doctors by Nature 43:08

6 dagen geleden43:08

Later Afspelen

Lijsten

Vind ik leuk

Leuk

43:08

"But it makes a lot of sense especially when you think about how traditional healers and shamans have worked, they haven't felt that separation from nature like Western medics do. And so to rely on the knowledge of other species actually makes a lot of sense. It's probably a lot more than we know at the moment." - Jaap de Roode Jaap de Roode is a biology professor at Emory University, and he is the author of an astonishing new book called Doctors by Nature How Ants, Apes, and Other Animals Heal Themselves . I say astonishing because I had no idea about so much of what he explores in his book. It never occured to me to consider that other species use medicine and have been healing themselves forever. Jaap tells stories of animals across nature, from bumblebees to chimpanzees, how they use plants and natural substances to treat infections, to ward off parasites, to self-medicate. There's so much that we have learned from them, and there's so much more that we still can.…

Lattice Training Podcast

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Hosted by Lattice Training - the world's leading climbing coaching and training company - this podcast features discussions and interviews with many of the planet's best climbers and coaches. We delve into the details of what works and what doesn't when it comes to training, performance and recovery. Whether you're just starting out climbing, or a professional athlete, there is an incredible depth of knowledge throughout the episodes! For further support and knowledge please check out Lattice 365, our exclusive membership group.

174 afleveringen

#Sports #Lattice Training #Science #Fitness #Tom Randall

Lattice Training Podcast

52 subscribers

updated 16 dagen geleden

Thuis series•Feed

174 afleveringen

#Sports #Lattice Training #Science #Fitness #Tom Randall

All episodes

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From Burnout to Breakthrough: Drew Ruana’s Analytical Approach to Climbing 1:20:33

16 dagen geleden1:20:33

1:20:33

Send us a text In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, Ollie Torr sits down with Drew Ruana , one of the strongest and most analytical climbers in the game today. Drew shares an unfiltered look into his training philosophy, his unique approach to projecting, and how he’s balancing high-level climbing with a degree in computer science. From discussing his "Level 4 Beta" system of optimising climbing efficiency to deep-diving into the mental aspects of performance, burnout, and progression, this conversation explores what it takes to push climbing limits—both physically and mentally. Other topics covered: The role of structured vs. intuitive training How weightlifting and non-climbing strength work fuels his performance The mental side of climbing, burnout, and staying psyched long-term Why goal-setting and patience are the most underrated tools in high-performance climbing His long-term aspirations, including a book on climbing performance Drew is known for sending some of the hardest boulders in the world, but in this conversation, we get a deeper look at the mindset and method behind his success. 🎧 Listen now on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you get your podcasts! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Creatine for Climbers: Game-Changer or Overhyped? 1:50:27

5 weeks geleden1:50:27

1:50:27

Send us a text In this episode, Ollie Torr is joined by Aidan Roberts , Andy Cave , Maddy Cope , Tom Herbert , and Dr. Ed Gibson-Smith to explore one of the most debated supplements in climbing—creatine. Does it actually help climbers perform better, or is it just another fitness industry fad? The panel breaks down the science and real-world applications of creatine, tackling common questions and misconceptions. Who benefits most? Does it improve power and endurance, or could it even hinder performance? How do diet and training style affect its effectiveness? And what about the infamous "flash pump"—is it a genuine concern or just gym bro nonsense? Ollie even puts creatine to the test himself: 🗣 “Before this podcast, I was taking 5g of creatine every day… now I’m taking none. Here’s why.” Key Takeaways: Power vs. Endurance: How creatine impacts different climbing styles. Recovery & Performance: Does it actually speed up recovery and help you send harder? Creatine & Weight Gain: Busting myths about ‘bulking up’ in climbing. Flash Pump Debate: Real concern or exaggerated worry? Diet & Absorption: Does your diet affect how well creatine works? Join us for a science-backed discussion on whether creatine is a must-have for climbers or just extra weight in your pack. 👉 Tune in now on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you listen! Edward Gibson-Smith's Data 👉 https://latticetraining.com/blog/creatine-podcast-supporting-visuals-by-dr-ed-gibson-smith/ The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Excalibur’s First Repeat: Will Bosi’s Hardest Climb Yet 52:43

8 weeks geleden52:43

52:43

Send us a text In this episode, Ollie Torr sits down with world-class climber Will Bosi, fresh off his impressive ascent of Excalibur (9b+). Will delves into the intricacies of his multi-year journey with the route, sharing insights into the beta refinements and the patience required to conquer one of the world's most challenging climbs. They discuss the significance of micro-beta adjustments, the balance between power and endurance, and the mental fortitude needed to tackle such formidable projects. Beyond Excalibur, Will reflects on his broader climbing journey, including his transition from competition climbing to outdoor pursuits. He shares experiences from notable ascents such as La Capella (9b) and his first ascent of King Capella (9b+) in Siurana, Spain. The conversation also touches on his groundbreaking repeats of some of the world's hardest boulder problems, including Burden of Dreams (V17) and Return of the Sleepwalker (V17), highlighting his versatility and dedication across climbing disciplines. Key Takeaways: Beta Breakthroughs: Discover how micro-adjustments in positioning and technique can unlock new levels of performance. Balancing Power & Endurance: Learn about the unique challenges presented by short, intense routes and how to train for them. Managing Conditions & Patience: Understand the importance of adapting to environmental factors and maintaining patience throughout long-term projects. Transitioning from Competition to Outdoor Climbing: Gain insights into Will's journey from the competition circuit to achieving remarkable feats on natural rock. Future Aspirations: Hear about Will's upcoming projects, including potential trips to Flatanger to explore routes like Silence (9c) and his ambitions within the UK climbing scene. 👉 Don't miss this in-depth conversation with one of the world's leading climbers. Tune in now to gain valuable insights into the mindset, training, and perseverance behind some of the most challenging ascents in climbing history. Available on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you listen! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Climbing Stronger: Injury Management, Optimism, and the Power of Training Load 1:36:43

11 weeks geleden1:36:43

1:36:43

Send us a text In this episode, Ollie Torr is joined by coach and physiotherapist Stian Christophersen to dive deep into the art and science of injury management in climbing. Stian shares his insights on balancing the training load, understanding pain perception, and the psychological tools that aid recovery. From the importance of optimism and goal-setting to the evolving role of technology in rehabilitation, this episode is packed with practical advice for climbers of all levels. Stian also dives into the fascinating concept of the “ comfort crisis ” – a phenomenon affecting modern athletes who avoid discomfort and challenges. He explains why stepping outside your comfort zone is essential for resilience, performance, and overall growth. Key Takeaways: Pain doesn't always equal injury – learn the difference. Early loading for injuries: why it works and how to start. The importance of optimism in injury recovery and beyond. Balancing intensity and volume in climbing training. Managing training load to reduce injury risks and maximise performance. 👉 Don’t miss this deep dive into climbing injury management's practical and psychological aspects. Tune in now to learn how to train smarter, recover faster, and climb stronger. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Finding Balance: Melissa Le Nevé on Climbing, Training, and Dreamtime 8C 1:10:18

15 weeks geleden1:10:18

1:10:18

Send us a text In this episode, Lattice coach Ella Russell chats with climbing icon Melissa Le Nevé to dive into her incredible journey from competition success to legendary outdoor ascents. Melissa shares her experiences, from claiming the first female ascent of the iconic Action Direct (9a / 5.14d) in the Frankenjura to her current project on the historic Dreamtime (8C / V15) in Ticino. They explore Melissa’s unique approach to training, including her recent gains in finger strength, her passion for combining climbing with paragliding, and how she balances bouldering, sport climbing, and multi-pitch routes like Le Voyage (E10 7a) and Delicatessen (8b / 5.13d). Whether you're seeking training inspiration or simply love hearing from the greats, this episode offers something for everyone. Key Takeaways Melissa’s transition from competitions to iconic outdoor challenges. Behind the scenes of her first female ascent of Action Direct and her ongoing work on Dreamtime . The difference between French and British training approaches and how Melissa saw surprising finger strength gains. How paragliding complements her climbing lifestyle. Her plans for future projects, including Biography (9a+ / 5.15a) and Bon Voyage (9a E12). Don’t miss this epic episode! Listen now on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or your favourite podcast platform. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Endurance Myths Busted with Coach Cam Hartley & Maddy Cope 1:12:06

18 weeks geleden1:12:06

1:12:06

Send us a text In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, Coach Cam joins Maddy Cope to explore the ins and outs of endurance training for climbers, setting the record straight on common myths and highlighting what really works. With expertise spanning climbing physiology and performance, Cam and Maddy dive into how climbers can strategically improve endurance, whether through low-intensity steady state (LISS) training or high-intensity interval training (HIIT) . Together, they discuss the importance of energy systems, the right mix of aerobic and anaerobic conditioning, and how climbers can self-experiment to personalize their training for maximum results. Cam also introduces his structured, step-by-step self-experimentation process to help climbers hone their endurance training over time. With insights into recovery, progressive overload, and energy efficiency, this episode is packed with practical advice for climbers at every level. Key Takeaways: Endurance training benefits both boulderers and sport climbers LISS vs. HIIT: How each impacts energy systems and performance Essential recovery strategies for improving endurance Why personalized, progressive training matters more than high-intensity alone Practical tips for tracking, testing, and evaluating training effectiveness Whether you’re new to climbing or looking to break through a plateau, this episode equips you with the knowledge and tools to take your endurance training to the next level! Links mentioned in the episode: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/329814457_The_determination_of_finger_flexor_critical_force_in_rock_climbers https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kwrzgg3jkFQ https://latticetraining.com/blog/training-series-finger-strength/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QeJc34LZIWI&t=800s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EY3XA7e-pw&t=645s The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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How Two Boulderers Freed The Nose 1:04:09

21 weeks geleden1:04:09

1:04:09

Send us a text In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, host Tom Randall chats with climber and coach Billy Ridal about his recent free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan . They explore Billy's journey from competition climbing to the world of big walls, discussing the physical preparation, mental resilience, and tactical planning essential for success on one of the world’s most iconic climbs. Billy shares his insights on transitioning to big wall climbing, the endurance training required, and how his competition experience played a crucial role. The discussion also highlights the upcoming film, The Nose Job , set to release on November 7th, which captures Billy’s and Alex Waterhouse's climb of The Nose. Their journey from the competition circuit to Yosemite's big walls is a tale of adaptation, physical preparation, and mental resilience on one of the world's most iconic routes. If you're curious about the skills, strategies, and mindset needed for big wall climbs, this episode is packed with valuable insights from one of the sport’s rising stars. Key Takeaways: Billy Ridal's free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan How competition climbing skills apply to big walls Endurance training and preparation for big wall climbing Highlights from the upcoming film The Nose Job Join Tom and Billy for an in-depth discussion that offers a mix of technical advice and gripping adventure stories from the world of big wall climbing. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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9A Mastery: How Will Bosi is Redefining Elite Bouldering 1:25:01

23 weeks geleden1:25:01

1:25:01

Send us a text In this special episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, host Tom Randall sits down with elite climber Will Bosi to discuss his remarkable second ascent of Spots of Time (9A/V17) on Helvellyn. Will offers a deep dive into the physical and mental challenges behind his historic climb, sharing the preparation, training strategies, and mindset that helped him send one of the toughest boulders in the world. Will reveals how he adapted the original sequence for his own climbing style and collaborated with fellow climber Aidan Roberts on beta, making this achievement a true test of both physical endurance and climbing intellect. They also explore Will’s unique approach to training—mimicking moves from the ground to conserve energy and protect skin—and how this method helped him succeed. In addition, the discussion touches on grading comparisons between other legendary climbs, including Burden of Dreams and Alphane , and Will’s thoughts on pushing the limits of elite bouldering. Will also shares insights on his new chalk brand, Bosi Blizzard , crafted to tackle tough conditions and support endurance on the sharpest holds. With insights into the mental toughness needed to handle the pressure at the top, and a sneak peek into his future projects, this episode is a must-listen for climbers aiming to understand the mindset behind high-level ascents. Key Takeaways: Will Bosi's adaptation of beta and sequence for Spots of Time Unique training methods to conserve energy and protect skin while preparing for a major project The mental preparation required for tackling world-class bouldering challenges How Will’s Spots of Time send compares to other 9As he’s tackled The evolution of climbing grades, including potential V18 projects What’s next on Will’s radar, from Japan’s hardest boulders to new UK projects Tune in now for this exciting discussion on breaking boundaries in the climbing world! And for Bosi Blizzard checkout https://williambosi.com/ The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Projecting Tactics for 8c and Beyond with Coach Jen Wood 10:11

28 weeks geleden10:11

10:11

Send us a text Ever wonder what it takes to break through the hardest routes? In this episode, elite climber and coach Jen Wood shares the tactics that took her from tough projects to climbing 8c and beyond. Jen breaks down the practical strategies she uses, showing how they can be applied by anyone working on a project, regardless of grade. Whether you’re pushing through the 6s or aiming for 8s, this episode offers valuable insights into building momentum, mastering outdoor sessions, and refining your approach to projecting. Topics Covered: Jen shares how consistently climbing outdoors, even just twice a week, has transformed her approach and improved her ability to recognise climbing techniques and tricks. Jen explains how she has built her climbing capacity and improved her skills on higher grades. The importance of knowing when to push through difficult moves and how breaking down routes into manageable sections can make hard sends more achievable. Accessing Try-Hard Mode, and how Jen started power screaming and learning to push her limits. For more insights into the world of climbing, projecting strategies, and mental resilience, listen to the full episode on all major podcast platforms. As a thank you for tuning in, enjoy 15% off Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Highlight: Training Like an Olympian with Coach Ollie Torr 21:12

29 weeks geleden21:12

21:12

Send us a text Ever wondered how hard Olympic level athlete train? In this episode highlight, which is a thirty-minute snippet of the full episode, host Josh Hadley talks to renowned coach, Ollie Torr , about the high-level physical and mental training that goes into preparing Olympic athletes. Key topics include: Training volume – Ollie explains how elite climbers train between 30-40 hours a week during their base season, including long hours on the wall and skill development. Execution and super compensation – Ollie describes the process of pushing athletes into “training holes,” where they continually push beyond their limits before tapering to recover and reach peak performance. Staying in the game: The importance of mental toughness and consistency, with athletes needing to prioritise training and withstand immense physical and emotional pressure to stay at the top level. Lower body strength & grip training: With dynamic movements and evolving setting styles, climbers need to focus more on leg strength, opposition, and less traditional components of grip training as the holds are getting larger, such as wrist strength, open drag grip positions, and wide pinches. For more insights into the world of Olympic-level training and the challenges faced by athletes, listen to the full episode on all major podcast platforms. As a thank you for tuning into this episode, enjoy 15% off Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Breaking Barriers: Jen Wood's Historic First Ascent and Climbing Evolution 46:01

31 weeks geleden46:01

46:01

Send us a text In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, host Teresa sits down with British climber and coach Jen Wood, who recently made history with her impressive ascents at Kilnsey and Water Cum Jolly in the UK. Jen also opens up about her toughest first ascent yet— Vela Stivina in Croatia —sharing how the unique climbing style there pushed her both mentally and physically to new limits. Jen discusses her journey, from projecting challenging routes in different climates to her preference for climbing in warmer weather, which has become a key part of her training philosophy. As someone who stepped back from competition climbing, Jen offers a candid reflection on how this shift has reshaped her approach to coaching and outdoor adventures. Key Takeaways: Consistency is Key: Regular time on the rock is essential for building both skill and confidence. Weather Matters: Jen’s preference for warmer conditions shows how the right environment can elevate performance and enjoyment. Stepping Back to Move Forward: Taking a break from competitions gave Jen a fresh perspective, allowing her to refocus on her passion for outdoor climbing. Training Smarter: Jen highlights the differences between preparing for competitions and training for outdoor climbs, emphasising the need to adapt strategies. Balance is Crucial: Rest and recovery are essential for staying at peak performance while pursuing a variety of climbing goals. Climbing Pitfalls: Jen shares common mistakes climbers make when trying to progress to higher grades and offers tips for overcoming these hurdles. Mental Fortitude: Breaking complex moves into smaller, achievable goals is key to pushing your limits. Embracing New Challenges: Success doesn’t always come in the form of initial goals, but personal achievements along the way can be just as rewarding. Expanding Comfort Zones: Exploring different climbing styles and routes helps climbers grow and tackle fresh challenges with renewed confidence. Jen's story is a reminder of how taking on new challenges—whether it’s a first ascent or switching focus from competition to outdoor climbing—can lead to remarkable achievements. This episode is filled with insights to inspire climbers of all levels, offering practical tips and an inside look at Jen's unique approach to climbing and coaching. Stay tuned for more from Jen as she sets her sights on new adventures, including a potential first ascent in Kalymnos! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Highlight: Postpartum Power: Sarah Duvall on Climbing, Core Strength, and Recovery After Pregnancy 10:29

32 weeks geleden10:29

10:29

Send us a text In today's Lattice Podcast, host Maddy Cope sits down with Sarah Duvall to explore the critical need for improved postpartum care, protocols, support, and education for women. Together, they uncover the significant gaps in research and recovery protocols for postpartum women compared to other injuries. Key Topics Include: Sarah’s Climbing Comeback: Sarah shares her personal journey of returning to climbing after pregnancy, highlighting the challenges she faced and valuable lessons learned. Core & Pelvic Floor Strength: Why prioritising core and pelvic floor strength is essential for postpartum recovery. Addressing Pubic Symphysis Pain: A discussion on common issues like pubic symphysis pain and the importance of addressing muscle imbalances before and during pregnancy. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Climbing Through Time: Steve McClure on Aging, Injury Prevention, and Staying Motivated 36:32

33 weeks geleden36:32

36:32

Send us a text In today's Lattice Podcast highlight, host Tom Randall sits down with legendary climber Steve McClure to delve into injury prevention and the nuances of climbing as we age. Life gets more complicated as you get older, but finding inspiration from motivated and strong friends can make a world of difference. Highlights from this Discussion Include: Life and Climbing: How increasing life complexities make it harder to push climbing limits as we age. Motivation from Peers: The crucial role of being surrounded by motivated and strong friends for ongoing inspiration. Ageing and Genetics: Understanding the impact of genetics and self-care on ageing climbers. Maintaining Muscle Mass: The importance of maintaining upper body muscle mass with age. Endurance and Power Endurance: How these aspects can still be improved, despite potential declines in finger strength. Flexibility Changes: Noting how flexibility evolves, with the lower body often retaining better range of motion than the upper body. Motivation and Enjoyment:Emphasizing the importance of motivation and the joy of climbing in maintaining progress over time. This episode is just a thirty minute highlight from a more in-depth conversation covering additional insights on balancing life and climbing as we age. For the full discussion, tune in to the complete episode available on all major podcast platforms. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Road to the Olympics: Exclusive Interview with Ollie Torr 1:09:41

34 weeks geleden1:09:41

1:09:41

Send us a text In this episode of the Lattice Podcast, host Josh Hadley sits down with renowned coach Ollie Torr, who has guided multiple Olympic athletes and collaborated with national teams worldwide. Together, they delve into the rigorous and strategic training required for Olympic climbers, revealing what distinguishes potential Olympic medallists from other elite international competitors—both in terms of personality traits and training approaches. Key Takeaways: The key differences between international competition climbers and those poised to win Olympic medals The vital role of a strong support network, including parents, coaches, physiotherapists, and media managers, in an athlete’s journey to success The importance of physical training focused on building resilience, cultivating the ability to push limits, and embracing challenges How training cycles, including deliberate "training holes" and super compensation, push athletes to their peak performance The significance of dedication, sacrifice, and trust in the training process for achieving success at the highest level The role of genetics and body type in climbing performance, alongside the impact of lifestyle choices and the joy of training Don’t miss this latest episode and elevate your climbing knowledge with expert insights from Josh Hadley and Ollie Torr. And best of luck to all the GB athletes in Paris 2024! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Being Your Best and Climbing in Your 50s with Steve McClure 1:00:19

35 weeks geleden1:00:19

1:00:19

Send us a text This is the second of a two-part episode, Tom Randall sits down with Steve McClure, one of the UK's most accomplished rock climbers, to discuss what it means to continue pushing boundaries and achieving peak performance in your 50s. Steve’s remarkable career includes first ascents and repeats across bouldering, sport climbing, trad climbing, and big walling. He achieved his highest sport climbing grade at 46 years old, ‘Rainman’ 9b at Malham cove, defying expectations and setting an inspiring example for climbers everywhere. Topics Covered: Life in Decades: Steve reflects on how his life has evolved from his 20s and 30s into his 40s and 50s, including changes in family, work, and climbing. Changes and Challenges: The main changes and challenges Steve has experienced as he’s gotten older. Climbing Performance: Which aspects of performance continue to improve with age and which tend to stagnate or decline. Training Focus: How Steve works on maintaining and improving his performance. Balance Shift: How his focus has shifted between bouldering, sport climbing, and trad climbing over the years. Performance Energy: Where Steve currently focuses most of his performance energy. Effective Training: What training methods are working for Steve now and how have they changed. Common Mistakes: Common errors ageing climbers make and how to avoid them. As a thank you to our listeners, we have an exclusive offer: Get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Highlight: Climbing In Your 50s with Steve McClure 13:21

36 weeks geleden13:21

13:21

Send us a text In today’s Lattice Podcast Highlight, host Tom Randall sits down with the legendary Steve McClure to discuss the secrets behind maintaining and performing into your 50s. Steve's storied career includes ground-breaking ascents and impressive repeats across all climbing disciplines, making him a unique authority on the subject. Highlights from this discussion include: Emphasising the importance of aligning training with specific climbing goals for optimal results. Understanding and addressing weaknesses Importance of top-quality trainers The significance of dedicating undistracted time to climbing and how full-time commitment can lead to substantial improvements. This 13min episode is just a highlight from a more in-depth conversation that delves into the evolution of climbing grades, training methods, and Steve’s unique approach to staying at the top of his game. For the full discussion, tune in to the complete episode available on all major podcast platforms. As a thank you to our listeners, get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Evolution of Grades & Psychology of Climbing at the Limit with Steve McClure 51:11

37 weeks geleden51:11

51:11

Send us a text In this two-part episode, Tom Randall sits down with Steve Mcclure , one of the UK's most accomplished rock climbers, to discuss the evolution of climbing grades and the psychology of operating at the limit. Steve's remarkable career includes first ascents and repeats across bouldering, sport climbing, trad climbing, and even big walling. His notable achievements include ‘Mutation’ 9a+/5.15a at Raven Tor which was upgraded from 9a/5.14d making it one of the first of this grade in the world, and the first ascent of ‘Rainman’ 9b/5.15b at Malham Cove, the first of this grade in the UK. Topics Covered: Operating at the Limit. Key Factors: What makes climbers excel or struggle at the limit? How climbing grades have changed over his career and the industry's influences. The roles of gear, training, psychology, and tactics in grade evolution. Elements of training that had the biggest effect on Steve’s performance. Predictions on where climbing training is headed and emerging opportunities. As a thank you to our listeners, we have an exclusive offer: Get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Highlight: Jana Švecová Projecting Stories 10:08

38 weeks geleden10:08

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Send us a text In today's Podcast Highlight, we delve into the world of climbing with Jana Švecová , an accomplished climber currently taking on the challenging boulder problem Terra Nova, graded 8C+. Here are the key insights from our conversation: Approaching Goals with Determination: Jana shares her approach to climbing goals, emphasising the importance of focus and determination while enjoying the journey. Dealing with Doubts and Criticism: Despite facing doubts and criticism, Jana stays resilient and trusts in her abilities, showcasing the mental fortitude required in climbing. Training with Lattice Training: Jana discusses her experience training with Lattice Training and the remarkable improvements she's seen in her climbing performance. Exploring Climbing Opportunities: Jana encourages climbers to explore the diverse climbing opportunities in the Czech Republic, highlighting its unique challenges and rewards. This Podcast Highlight offers a glimpse into Jana's climbing journey and her passion for the sport. For the full conversation and more insights, listen to the complete episode available on all major podcast platforms. Do you want to start your training journey? As a thank you to our listeners, we have an exclusive offer, get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15 . The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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The Evolution of Training in Climbing - 10 Years of Lattice 1:19:30

39 weeks geleden1:19:30

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Send us a text In today's Lattice Podcast, host Tom Randall sits down with coach Maddie Cope to delve into the evolution of education and training in the climbing world. They discuss significant changes in three key areas: energy systems, female athletes, and strength and conditioning. Tom and Maddie share insights on how understanding and approaches have transformed over the years, leading to positive outcomes in climbing performance and training effectiveness. Main topics include: Energy Systems: Improved categorisation and understanding of energy systems have enhanced training effectiveness and load management. Female Athletes: Education on the menstrual cycle and female physiology has empowered female climbers, improving training structure and performance. Strength and Conditioning: Shifts in attitudes towards strength and conditioning now emphasise specificity, progressive overload, and injury prevention, with a focus on core and upper body strength. As a thank you to our listeners, we have an exclusive offer: Get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Highlight: Flexibility Training for Climbers 26:15

40 weeks geleden26:15

26:15

Send us a text In today’s Lattice Podcast Highlight, hosts Maddy Cope and Tom Randall discuss Lattice's brand-new online flexibility training course. This course emphasises the importance of education and knowledge-sharing in climbing training, focusing on three main goals: Educating climbers on methods beyond passive static stretching Integrating flexibility training into overall training programs Helping climbers select exercises based on their flexibility level. The course provides step-by-step guides and assessments, to transform your approach to flexibility training and promote a sustainable, informed method. Highlights include: Training Frequency Menstrual Cycle Considerations Structured Approach Evolving Training Culture Active vs. Passive Stretching Importance of Education This episode is a highlight from a more in-depth conversation coming next week, covering additional insights on flexibility training, energy systems, and optimising performance for climbers.⁣ Special Offer Ends Soon, 1st July at Midnight: Get 20% off the Flexibility Deep Dive course and our cork yoga Flex Mat. Don’t miss this chance to elevate your training! https://latticetraining.com/product/flexibility-course-bundle/ The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Unlocking Flexibility: Q&A with Coaches Josh and Fran 1:05:24

41 weeks geleden1:05:24

1:05:24

Send us a text In this week’s podcast join Lattice Training coach, Josh Hadley , and fellow coach Fran Giacomozzi , as they answer your burning questions about flexibility training for climbers. Josh and Fran dive into how to improve flexibility, starting with practical tips on specific stretches, including how to utilise different types of stretches such as tempo. Key Topics Covered: Integrating flexibility with climbing At-home body weight exercises Essential strength training tips for climbers with hypermobility At-home body weight exercises, including upper body Managing soreness and dealing with injuries Strategies to maintain consistent stretching, including setting targets and measuring progress Join us for this comprehensive episode as Josh and Fran share their expert insights on flexibility training for climbers. Whether you’re struggling with hypermobility, looking to improve your range of motion, or seeking motivation to stretch consistently, this episode is packed with valuable advice and practical tips. If you enjoyed this episode, let us know! We’d love to do more Q&A sessions in the future. Plus, get 20% off the Flexibility Deep Dive course and our cork yoga Flex Mat - ends 1st July at Midnight. https://latticetraining.com/product/flexibility-course-bundle/ The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Highlight: Overcoming Insecurity and Errors in Big Walling 12:42

42 weeks geleden12:42

12:42

Send us a text In today's Lattice Podcast Highlight, coach Maddy Cope is joined by coach Billy Ridal to discuss the challenges and insecurities faced while climbing a difficult pitch on a big wall. They delve into the physical and mental efforts required to overcome insecurities and stick with the climb. Topics include: Facing Climbing Challenges: The physical and mental efforts needed to tackle difficult pitches on big walls. Recovering from Errors: The importance of making small errors and being able to recover from them. Confidence & Climbing: How confidence levels can vary between climbers during challenging ascents. This episode is just a highlight from a more in-depth conversation that explores additional insights on managing nerves, maintaining focus, and handling time constraints during multi-pitch climbs. For the full discussion, tune in to the complete episode available on all major podcast platforms. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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How to get back into climbing post-childbirth? 1:19:21

43 weeks geleden1:19:21

1:19:21

Send us a text In today's episode, host and coach, Maddy Cope, is joined by Dr. Sarah Duvall, a women's health and fitness specialist, to explore the intersection of climbing, fitness, and motherhood. Maddy brings her experience from coaching elite climbers post-partum such as Emily Harrington, and her passion for climbing to the conversation as she delves into Sarah's expertise. With over 15 years in the climbing industry and a background in coaching and climbing performance, Maddy is excited to learn from Sarah's wealth of experience. Together, they uncover practical strategies and exercises to enhance your climbing journey, whether you're a seasoned pro or just starting out. From managing fear and anxiety to finding balance and prioritisation, this episode is packed with valuable insights: Topics include: Insights into Sarah's personal climbing journey postpartum and her impressive climbing achievements. The importance of breathing techniques and core strength for climbers, particularly during pregnancy and postpartum. Practical exercises and tips for improving breathing patterns and core engagement. Strategies for managing fear and anxiety when returning to climbing postpartum. Finding balance and prioritisation in different seasons of life. Don't miss out on this empowering conversation with Dr. Sarah Duvall. Available on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more. Some links from Sarah to help support the podcast: Heel hooking hamstring strain strengthening prevention protocol: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqvTjDcGZXQ&t=9s Advanced hip rotational exercises: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SoC5YhmojGQ&t=37s Drawing in vs abdominal brace: https://youtu.be/WA-mFvykZ9k?si=hQVcYeG1TDquRDpK Rib cage mobility breathing exercise: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L1AkIPbnbfg Pushing vs pulling and core pressure: https://www.instagram.com/tv/B4ezNr6HXGu/?igsh=dHB1dHllbTB6dDBm The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Highlight: Exploring Endurance Through Psycho-Biological Theories 10:07

44 weeks geleden10:07

10:07

Send us a text In today's Lattice Podcast highlight, host and coach Josh Hadley sits down with coach Cameron Hartley to explore two interesting theories. The ‘Central Governor Theory’, which suggests that a system in our brain signals when it's time to stop exercising to prevent potential harm, and the ‘ Psycho-Biological Theory ’, which integrates psychological constructs into our understanding of endurance performance. Highlights from this discussion include: Understanding exercise cessation: The role of the brain in regulating physical limits according to the Central Governor Theory. Integrating psychology in endurance: How the Psycho-Biological Theory emphasises the perception of effort and motivation. This episode is just a highlight from a more in-depth conversation that covers additional insights on endurance performance and how these theories can be applied in training. For the full discussion, tune in to the complete episode available on all major podcast platforms. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Will Jana Švecová be the first woman to boulder 9A/V17? 57:24

45 weeks geleden57:24

57:24

Send us a text Join us for an inspiring podcast with Jana Švecová, an accomplished climber who is currently pushing her limits on the boulder problem Terranova, which was established by Adam Ondra in the Czech Republic back in 2011, it’s currently graded 8C+/V16, and with no repeats, it’s rumoured it could be 9A/V17. Jana's dedication and goal-oriented mindset have propelled her to become one of the strongest female boulderers in the world. In this episode, she shares valuable insights on setting and achieving goals, dealing with pressure and criticism, and finding joy in the process. Topics include: Setting and achieving goals in climbing: Jana discusses the significance of setting goals and how it has fueled her progress. Trusting yourself and overcoming doubts: How Jana has dealt with doubts and criticism from others throughout her climbing journey. She shares her strategies for staying focused, trusting her abilities, and not letting external opinions hinder her. Finding your own fun in climbing: She shares her perspective on what brings joy in climbing and the variety of challenges it offers. Challenges and rewards of climbing in cold weather: Her experiences climbing in different weather conditions and insights on preparing and adapting to these challenges. Embracing adaptability during climbing trips: Climbing trips don't always go the way you expect, Jana explores the importance of adaptability, maintaining a positive mindset, and finding opportunities for growth even when faced with obstacles. Exploring the climbing opportunities in the Czech Republic: It’s hidden gems! Join us in today's episode where Jana Švecová shares her passion for climbing, her personal insights, and her excitement for future climbing projects. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Highlight: Dealing with Post-Partum Criticism 11:40

46 weeks geleden11:40

11:40

Send us a text Today's highlight is on Emily Harrington's postpartum journey, including her rapid recovery and return to climbing and skiing. Emily faced criticism for her decision to resume physical activities soon after giving birth, but she stood firm in her belief that it's essential to do what feels right for oneself. Join us as Emily opens up about the challenges of navigating postpartum life, including the emotional and physical toll of breastfeeding and the pressures of body image. Topics Covered: Birth Experience and Early Postpartum Period Challenges of Body Image and Breastfeeding Return to Climbing and Skiing The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Training in your 60s: Jill Whittaker talks about her best year of climbing yet! 1:02:01

47 weeks geleden1:02:01

1:02:01

Send us a text In this episode, join host Tom Randall as he sits down with Jill Whitaker, she is a 61-year-old climber and mother of two accomplished pro climbers (Pete and Katy Whitaker). She is a testament to the power of perseverance and dedication! We will explore Jill's remarkable journey into climbing post-60 and her unique perspectives on training and climbing. Main topics: Jill's climbing background: From her early years in trad climbing to her rediscovery of the sport and return to climbing. Starting training and setting goals: How she juggled supporting her children’s climbing alongside her own training after a long break from the sport. Jill's training program: Insights into her training program, focusing on multiple areas including; pulling strength, finger strength, and maintaining power endurance and flexibility. Experiences with testing climbing performance: Jill's experiences with testing, and the positive feedback she received from friends. Climbing trip to Leonidio, Greece: Highlights from her recent climbing trip, where she achieved personal bests on some challenging routes. Reflections and Advice: Jill reflects on her climbing journey and the impact of structured training on her performance. Plus, advice for climbers of all ages seeking to improve.. Throughout the conversation, Jill's journey serves as a testament to the power of a positive attitude, perseverance, and the importance of having a structured training program. Do you want to start your training journey? As a thank you to our listeners, we have an exclusive offer, get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15 . Tune in to gain valuable insights and inspiration from Jill Whitaker's incredible and wholesome attitude towards the sport and life. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Highlight: Will Bosi climbing sport 9c or Adam Ondra bouldering 9A first? 8:25

48 weeks geleden8:25

8:25

Send us a text In this podcast highlight, Tom Randall and Will Bosi discuss various aspects of Will's climbing projects, aiming to understand the mental process of walking away from a project. They also touch on Will's future plans for 2024 and whether Will will try a 9c route any time soon. Listen to the Podcast highlight, or the full episode on our Spotify, Apple Music, Stitcher, and many more! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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The Inconvenient Truth About Getting Good at Climbing 1:26:47

49 weeks geleden1:26:47

1:26:47

Send us a text In today's Lattice Podcast, Coach Josh Hadley sits down with Dr Simon Fryer to discuss the challenges of testing rock climbers, highlighting the differences between climbing and other sports. Dr Simon Fryer is a Senior Lecturer in Sport & Exercise Physiology at the University of Gloucestershire, with a PhD in biomedical science. His background is in sports, exercise, and biomedical science, with a specialist interest in cardiovascular and cardiometabolic physiology. As an exercise physiologist, he delivers a range of Sports and Exercise Science courses and his research focuses on the impact of exercise and physical activity on health, disease, and sports performance, specifically concerning the cardiovascular and cardiometabolic systems. He has also delivered many talks on the importance of physical activity and health, such as his TEDx Cheltenham talk "Are You Sitting Comfortably?" Key topics include: Health benefits of climbing Misguided information in the climbing community The inconvenient truth about getting good at climbing Importance of base training and lower limb strength Advice for pursuing an academic or research route We also cover: Importance of peripheral adaptations in climbing and the role of aerobic fitness Current best practices for testing climbers, including occlusion tests and near-infrared spectroscopy Vision for the future of climbing performance testing, including the use of big data and technology So whether you’re a sports science advocate, or simply curious to hear more of the science behind climbing, take a seat and enjoy today’s podcast. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Highlight: Why is Return of the Sleepwalker V17/9A so hard? 7:42

50 weeks geleden7:42

7:42

Send us a text May seem like an obvious question, but in this podcast highlight, Nate Williams shares his experience with projecting Return of the Sleepwalker, a V17/9A boulder problem, and the challenges he faces with friction control and conditions. Nate also talks about his projecting and beta sharing with Will Bosi, and how they optimise weather and friction conditions for best attempts. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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How the Mind Hacks Your Training Session 1:26:21

51 weeks geleden1:26:21

1:26:21

Send us a text In today’s Lattice Training podcast, coach Josh Hadley sits down with coach Cam Hartley to discuss three key areas; Training myths and misconceptions Psychobiology and endurance performance Importance of consistency in training for climbing just one of the strongest members of the Lattice Training coaching team, but also has a BSc in Sports Science and wrote his research paper on the strength differences between the strongest and weakest hand. Since then he has begun a PhD on the impact of mental fatigue on health and performance in rock climbing athletes. As Cam is a specialist in psychobiology and its relationship to performance, Josh and Cam start to explore the psychobiological model of endurance performance and its implications for training and performance. They also delve into the aerobic and anaerobic thresholds and the importance of training in specific zones to optimise endurance. So if you are psyched about training your endurance and improving performance, this is a great episode for you! So whether you want to understand how to improve your endurance training, or just looking to debunk some climbing training myths, tune in to today’s show. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Highlight: Have you heard about "crimp finger"? 5:02

1 year geleden5:02

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Send us a text People regularly get confused between a pulley strain and an irritation of the tendon, which Huffy has called 'crimp finger'. In this podcast highlight it explains the differences between the two to enable you to diagnose the correct injury so that you can seek the correct treatment. This podcast highlight is a snippet of our podcast with GB climbing physio, which covers various topics related to climbing injuries and rehabilitation. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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The Hard Truths of Return Of The Sleepwalker 29:36

1 year geleden29:36

29:36

Send us a text In this week’s podcast, join Lattice Training coach, Josh Hadley, as he is joined by pro climber, Nate Williams , who has been projecting ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ (V17/9A) in Las Vegas, USA, which recently saw its second ascent, by Will Bosi in February 2024. Nate’s been working on this well-known climb for over 2 seasons, since sending the stand-start version ‘Sleepwalker’ (V16/8C+) back in December 2020. In this episode, we delve into Nate's climbing journey, understanding the intricacies of this famous V17/9A boulder problem and how this recent ascent changes what he will do next. Nate discusses his past, growing up and being mentored by Jimmy Webb, his conversations with Daniel Woods discussing a new boulder that later became Sleepwalker, and how he went from competing nationally to being a fully outdoors climber. Josh delves into his remarkable journey and learns what it takes to project at your limit and unlock new potential. Other topics include: Who is Nathan Williams? How Jimmy Webb influenced Nate’s style of climbing The commitment to the process of projecting and how what to think about when choosing a boulder at your limit Differences between the stand (Sleepwalker, V16/8C+) and the sit (Return of the Sleepwalker V17/9A) How to build friction and how holds differ in their texture Supporting Will Bosi with his recent ascent and differences in their approach What is next for Nate after ROTS? And much more! Tune in for this captivating episode as we discuss the ripple effect of Will Bosi's recent ascent of "Return of the Sleepwalker" and its implications for Nate's own journey. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Adam Ondra Repeats The World’s Hardest Trad Route 57:31

1 year geleden57:31

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Send us a text In this episode, join host Tom Randall for an in-depth conversation with climbing legend James Pearson . James recently established ‘Bon Voyage’ (E12), a route he boldly suggests is the world's hardest trad climb, pushing the boundaries of difficulty and safety in the sport. James Pearson is a household name in the climbing world, known for his ground-breaking first ascents like ‘The Walk of Life’ (E9), as well as ascents of some of the world's hardest sport climbs. Despite that, there has been controversy surrounding the grading in his earlier career.⁣ Although his earlier efforts faced some controversy, with a few of his climbs like The Groove being downgraded after establishment. This criticism, which even included accusations of overgrading for media attention, forced James to re-evaluate the entire grading system. The experience turned out to be a turning point for James. He spent years rebuilding his confidence and credibility as a climber, making significant ascents in Europe. This included repeating the downgraded ‘The Walk of Life’ and tackling other difficult routes like ‘Tribe’ (E11) and ‘Lexicon’ (E11 7a). So when James established 'Bon Voyage' in France and felt it was his hardest route yet, he initially hesitated to propose a grade. However, after witnessing other accomplished climbers struggle on the route, James decided to propose the world's first E12 once again, ten months after his initial ascent. This episode dives into James' experience with 'Bon Voyage' and the lessons learned from his past grading controversies, but also the validation James received when none other than Adam Ondra , successfully repeated the route and agreed with the E12 grade. In this episode, James dives deep into: Sharing ‘Bon Voyage’ with Adam Ondra What makes this route unlike anything else out there Adam Ondra’s approach to risk What beta Adam Ondra used for this epic route Who else is trying ‘Bon Voyage’ The evolution of trad grades and why did James propose the controversial E12 grade for ‘Bon Voyage’ This episode is a must-listen for any climber interested in the cutting edge of trad climbing, the ever-evolving world of grading, and the unique perspectives of two climbing legends! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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How A Competition Climber Became the FIRST Brit to Free 'The Nose' 1:19:55

1 year geleden1:19:55

1:19:55

Send us a text Tune in to today's episode as host and coach Maddy Cope chats with climber and coach Billy Ridal about his six-week American adventure to free climb El Capitan's The Nose (5.14a/8b+) . This historic route, famous for its challenging granite smears, was first aid climbed over 47 days by Warren Harding and various others in 1958 and first free-climbed by Lynn Hill in 1993 (an ascent which was well ahead of it’s time!) With such a legacy, it's no surprise Billy and Alex set their sights on it. Billy shares how his long-held dream of climbing big walls led him to El Cap, where he and his partner Alex Waterhouse etched their names in history as the first Brits to free climb The Nose. From weathering storms in a leaky portaledge 1,500 feet above the ground to making the most of daylight with early starts, Billy recounts their journey. Topics Include: What inspired Billy and Alex to take on The Nose's challenge How they got stuck in the two main crux’s of the route Their plan if one of them couldn't climb a specific pitch How they used innovative thinking to overcome various weather conditions The highs and lows of portaledge life Maintaining high morale under time pressure And much more! Tune in for this captivating episode and hear firsthand the amazing story of determination, friendship, and triumph on The Nose. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Pro athlete, Emily Harrington, on climbing, pregnancy and motherhood 1:16:13

1 year geleden1:16:13

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Send us a text In today’s podcast, Lattice Coach, Mina Leslie-Wujastyk , delves deep with Emily Harrington into her recent transition to motherhood with partner, Adrian Ballinger, and their son, Aaro. Emily shares insights into her decision to have a child amidst their adventurous lifestyles and careers, and navigating the uncertainties that came with it. Emily, a multidisciplinary athlete, has major achievements, not just in international and national sport climbing competitions, but also in big wall climbing, alpine climbing, skiing, and more. The North Face athlete ascended some of the most challenging routes and ascents, including sport climbing up numerous routes in the 5.14 range, Mount Everest, and free climbing El Cap in a single day via Golden Gate. The discussion explores various aspects of Emily's journey, including her experiences during pregnancy, her expedition to Baffin Island while expecting, and her candid reflections on postpartum life. Emily opens up about her birth experience, returning to movement and climbing, managing body image issues, and finding balance between motherhood and her athletic identity. Emily reflects on her attitudes toward risk as a mother and the evolution of her goals since having Aaro, sharing the challenges and triumphs of parenthood in the world of professional climbing. Emily also shares practical tips and tricks for managing training, travel logistics, and sponsorship commitments while being a devoted mother. Topics include: - Decision-making process behind starting a family amidst adventurous careers - Emily's pregnancy journey and managing climbing and risk during this time - Expedition to Baffin Island while expecting and decision-making process - Experiences and challenges of postpartum life, including returning to climbing - Reflections on attitudes toward risk as a mother and evolving goals - Practical tips and tricks for managing training, travel logistics, and sponsorship commitments Join us for this enlightening conversation with Emily Harrington. Don't miss out on this opportunity to gain wisdom and inspiration from one of the most accomplished climbers of our time. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project . The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Climbing Injuries with the GB Olympic Physio 1:25:39

1 year geleden1:25:39

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Send us a text Get ready for an eye-opening episode! Hosts Josh Hadley and Jonny Kydd sit down with renowned physiotherapist Paul ‘Huffy’ , a climbing injury expert with over 25 years of experience. He is known for attending the Olympics as Shauna Coxey ’s physio, and for having an impressive track record in diagnosing and treating the range of injuries climbers face. Discover the most misunderstood climbing injuries, common myths debunked, and get insider tips for effective rehab. Paul shares his insights of common injuries, both indoor and outdoor, drawing from his wealth of experience. Ever wondered about Shauna Coxsey's physio secrets? Paul spills the beans on lessons learned, from elite climbing to influencing the culture of "training for climbing." Get ready for practical training advice straight from a climbing injury expert. Topics include: Most misdiagnosed injuries in climbing? Unhelpful physio advice climbers should look out for? Other than finger injuries, what are the most common injuries climber’s face? Lessons learned from being a physio to GB climbing star Shauna Coxey? What do climbers keep getting wrong in the 'training for climbing' culture? Training advice, from top physio, which climbers everywhere can benefit from? Ready to boost your knowledge of climbing injuries? Don't miss out on expert insights to enhance your climbing journey. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Eyes set on America's First V17 & Frustration on Excalibur 9b+ with Will Bosi 1:11:19

1 year geleden1:11:19

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Send us a text In today's podcast, host Tom Randall sits down with athlete Will Bosi , delving into his recent trip to Arco, Italy. Where Will was attempting to secure the second ascent of Excalibur (5.15c/9b+), and looking ahead at his plans for 2024 and his upcoming trip to the USA. Reflecting on his multiple trips to his project Excalibur , Will gives an overview of his projecting strategies and how he coped with the challenging weather conditions (which when climbing at this level takes a lot of mental control!). Tom also drew on questions fans have sent to us, asking about Will's experiences during his trip to the Czech Republic, where he successfully sent Nova (8C/V15) while attempting Terranova (8C+/V16). Plus delving into, his thoughts on Simon Lorenzi’s beta on Burden of Dreams (9A/V17) in Finland. The podcast covers a range of topics, including: How to use replica training and optimise your climbing performance Navigating challenges and frustrations during a projecting trip when it feels the world is against you Defining success in the face of a non-sending trip Will Bosi's goals for his upcoming trip to the USA The importance of resting and effective skincare in climbing Simon Lorenzi’s insane beta on Burden of Dreams How a climber’s strengths influence their projecting strategies And much more! If you’re looking for more juicy insights on Will Bosi’s projecting strategies, or want to know what he is going to try next, head over to our podcast. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project . The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Insights from the UK's Projecting Experts 1:09:58

1 year geleden1:09:58

1:09:58

Send us a text In today’s podcast, host and coach Josh Hadley sits down with coaches Roz Frugtniet and Jonny Kydd to discuss their common mistakes, challenges, and tactics for climbing projects. Roz is an experienced sport climber, having climbed multiple 8c routes and was the first British woman to flash 8a+ (Face de Rat, 8a+/5.13c, in Ceuse, France). Joined by, Jonny a renowned boulderer, who recently ticked his 5-year project that took him 110 sessions (The World is Yours, 8C/V15, in Biblins Cave, UK) showcasing his expertise in long-term projecting. Their diverse backgrounds set the stage for an interesting conversation where the coaches share their distinct tactics and rituals for the crucial "send go!" Host and coach, Josh, explores the intricacies of bouldering while figuring out how many sessions is too little or too long to be considered a climb at your limit. Other topics include: Unlocking the power of knowing your project's finish Harnessing video beta to its maximum potential for accelerated learning Strategising for non-sending sessions Managing the mental demands of longer-term climbing projects Discover the crucial role of a supportive climbing partner in your success And much more! So if you want to know more on how to improve your projecting session, head over to our podcast. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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First Female Ascent of Black Mamba (5.14b/8c): Interviewing Mary Eden 54:13

1 year geleden54:13

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Send us a text In today's podcast, we have one of our athletes, Mary Eden, also known as @TradPrincess joining us with Tom Randall . She has recently achieved the first female ascent of one of the hardest roof crack climbs in the world, Black Mamba (5.14b/8c) in White Rim, Utah. This route had its first ascent in 2019 by the Wideboyz , but it remained unrepeated until this year. The climbing powerhouse, who mentors many new crack climbers, wanted to take it a step further and attempt this gnarly route. They talk through Mary’s approach to climbing and training, highlighting how she has never thought of herself as a ‘talented’ or ‘natural’ climber. They delve into the lifestyle challenges that accompany training and climbing when pushing higher grades. Key topics covered include: Mary's climbing journey and her limited knowledge of training methods in the early years How she embraces the concept of learning through failure and the impact this has had on her climbing How her approach to climbing and training differed as she progressed to 5.12a/f7a What training strategies did she adopt that propelled her into the 5.13a/f7c+ grades Sharing top tips she has learnt over five years of focusing on pushing her climbing performance Want to hear more from Mary Eden and Tom Randall? Head over to our podcast on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Stranger than Fiction (5.14b/8c): Interviewing Lor Sabourin 59:14

1 year geleden59:14

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Send us a text Lor Sabourin has been in the climbing scene for a while now! They made the first no-falls ascent of the route, ‘ Cousin of Death ’ (5.13+/7c+) in Northern Arizona, back in 2020. Then in 2021, they did an impressive ascent of ‘ East Coast Fist Bump ’ (5.14a/8b+). This was only the beginning though, this autumn, Lor outdid themselves by sending the infamous “ Stranger Than Fiction ” (5.14b/8c). This was the first redpoint since the first ascensionist Mason Earle sent the route in 2015. Lor’s projecting process fascinated and continues to impress us here at Lattice, as they have a unique approach to dealing with the physical, mental and technical aspects of projecting complex routes over a long time period. Whilst Lattice has worked with many athletes over the years who’ve had season-long projects, it’s always remarkable to see someone achieve their multi-year project! Key topics: Lor finding and sampling ‘Stranger than Fiction’ Mental tools for dealing with the uncertainty of technical trad routes The type of training they did with their Lattice coach Maddy Cope Using gratitude as a tool when long-term projecting Juggling work with the climbing lifestyle Tools they used to progress every season on ‘Stranger than Fiction’ How their training led to a leap in their bouldering grade Want to learn more about how a Performance Coaching Plan can help you achieve your goals? Head over to the Lattice Training website to find out more! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project . The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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What is in Alex Honnold’s Training Plan? 1:32:57

1 year geleden1:32:57

1:32:57

Send us a text Today Tom Randall and Ollie Torr take a step back from being humble and name some of the biggest names Lattice has worked with. They dive deep into the details behind Alex Honnold , Toby Roberts , and even Emily Harrington ’s coaching. But these are just some of the major clients Lattice has worked with, so grab a cup of tea and tune in for a juicy podcast! The main topics are: Are Pros all-rounders? Choosing priorities Is it better to climb or train more? Is it better to work finger strength on the wall or on a fingerboard? What type of endurance works best? With lots of examples based on the notable climbers we work with. What are you waiting for? You can find our podcast on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project . The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Training The Worlds Strongest Man With Tom Randall & Dan Hipkiss 1:00:54

1 year geleden1:00:54

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Send us a text Today’s guest is Dan Hipkiss , the coach to ' The Stoltman Brothers ', who have held multiple World’s Strongest Man titles, a few world records and multiple international competition podiums. Dan also coaches others in the sports of powerlifting, CrossFit and Olympic weightlifting, giving him a varied background in performance training. Seeing that Dan also rock climbs, and understands the fundamentals of the sport, host Tom Randall invited him on to pick his brain in the hopes of learning new perspectives on training for climbing. The main topics are: Frequency and volume of strength training Training weaknesses and de-prioritising strengths Injury prevention for strength athletes Using deload cycles as a tool for getting stronger Want to learn more about how these sports can influence your climbing? You can find our podcast on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project . The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Pete Whittaker on Trad 9a: Crown Royale 54:28

1 year geleden54:28

54:28

Send us a text Tom Randall couldn’t be more excited because in today’s podcast, the Wideboyz have come together to discuss Pete Whittaker ’s latest 9a Trad send, Crown Royale ! Tom and Pete discuss all the training behind this monstrous climb. Plus, they dive in into some of Pete’s assessment techniques before training, with Pete even spilling some key tips that helped him adapt his training for his project. Key topics include: How Pete self assesses before training His training structure and how it has evolved Replica Training What he has learned from climbers with different strengths (i.e Magnus) How he stays motivated What are you waiting for? You can find our podcast on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project . The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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This or That series...Kilter Board or Moonboard? 19:36

2 years geleden19:36

19:36

Send us a text Welcome to another exciting episode of 'This or That,' where our host, Tom Randall , is about to challenge our guest's climbing training preferences. Today's special guest is none other than Ollie Torr , the co-founder of Lattice and one of our world class coaches in the Lattice team. While we all recognize Ollie for his exceptional coaching skills, what you may not know is that he brings a wealth of experience from his years in gymnastics and coaching training. His background equips him with a unique and expert perspective when tackling these rapid-fire questions. So, find a comfortable seat because Tom and Ollie are about to dive deep into the following debates: -Kilterboard or Moonboard -10mm or 20mm for finger strength -ARC and continuity or high-intensity intervals for route climbers -Low reps or high reps for building strength -Starting young and specializing or beginning later and pursuing a broader approach ...and that's just the beginning. Stay tuned for a lively discussion on these topics and more! Tune in to today's podcast, which is available on various platforms, including Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, etc., and learn from one of the best coaches out there. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project . The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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