The best rock climbers in the world share their struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game. Hosted by Ryan Devlin. If you love rock climbing and want to get better at it, chalk up and pull on.
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a climbing podcast
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Dan Bova, editorial director of Entrepreneur.com, has high-energy chats with entrepreneurs who are pursuing careers that their parents, teachers and any sane person in their life can't wait for them to quit and "get a real job." Everyone from comedians to treasure hunters to craft brewers will explain the ups and downs of doing something that is decidedly not normal, that doesn't have a guaranteed future, but damn is it fun in the meantime. Theme music by Rich Bova.
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Season 2 of Genealogies of Modernity is a limited series from the Genealogies of Modernity Project and Ministry of Ideas. Each episode takes up a well-worn story about what it means to be modern and how we got here, and then challenges that narrative with recent humanities scholarship. Genealogies of Modernity illuminates lesser-known pathways to the present and unearths overlooked resources from the past for flourishing in the future. Genealogies of Modernity is a project of Beatrice Instit ...
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The desert island disc of books. Authors, writers and readers discuss the books that shaped them throughout their lives.
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Welcome to The Mindset Project podcast with Ryan Waight, where I interview high achievers, industry experts and everyday heroes. The Goal? To establish the secrets and skills of their mindset, and what drives them to succeed... What strategies and habits have they consistently applied within their life to be the best possible version of themselves? It's all here on the The Mindset Project.
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Enormocast 292: Hamish McArthur and Holly Toothill – Showing Up
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1:27:31
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On Episode 292 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a hotel in Squamish (Sḵwx̱wú7mesh) during the Arc’teryx Academy with Olympian Hamish McArthur and British competition climber Holly Toothill. I arrived in Squamish with Hamish booked and asked Holly to join at the last minute as a friend, teammate, and observer of Hamish’s performance in … Continue re…
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Finger Training 2.0 with Zachary Laschober of Specialized Masochism
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1:18:38
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Climbing Coach Zachary Laschober joins to discuss: Sports-specific versus non-sport-specific finger training Limitations of the "standard" 20mm flat edge Hand and finger physiology for optimal performance and recovery Evolution of training implements featuring an "unlevel" or "natural" design Isometric yielding (resisting) vs overcoming (curling) t…
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Anna Hazelnutt | Crag Chat: Finger Injuries, How to Focus Our Training, Naked in Nature, Dating Apps, and Dick Jokes
1:16:42
1:16:42
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Anna Hazelnutt is back with another Crag Chat packed with laughs, musings, updates, struggles, beta, and whatever else is on our minds, including: The climbing posters that hung on Anna’s childhood walls (and why she took them down) Anna’s recent send of Peace Lumbrical injuries and how we’re rehabbing them What to add and what to let go when it co…
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Kai Lightner: Sending 5.15a and Beyond, Adapting to a Bigger Body, Competitor's Mindset, and the Future of Climbing
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1:29:54
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Elite climber Kai Lightner shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - CHAPTERS: Struggle: 0:08:50 Training: 0:12:08 Nutrition: 0:26:30 Tactics: 0:40:25 Mental Game: 0:55:06 Purpose: 1:05:56 - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSO…
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Useful Coach Tom Herbert: Pro Clinic on Fueling for Better Performance, Recovering Faster, and a Method to Cut Weight Without Cutting Calories
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36:53
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In this Pro Clinic, Tom Herbert covers: How to "stack" carbs and protein around a workout Getting a head start on recovery after a hard sesh How nutrition changes for "on" days vs "off" days The bias against carbs and the risk of cutting them out Training weight vs project weight How to manipulate weight quickly for a short-term cut Meal timing Whe…
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Matt Samet: Building Strength and Power, Being Coached by Nina Williams, Redpoint Tactics, and Dealing with Anxiety On and Off the Rock
1:36:50
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Elite climber Matt Samet shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - CHAPTERS: Training: 0:9:22 Nutrition: 0:28:04 Tactics: 0:35:18 Mental Game: 0:52:33 Purpose: 1:09:37 - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WH…
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Enormocast 290: Hayden Jamieson -Through the Valley of Darkness
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On Episode 290 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a cool, dark hotel room on a bright and HOT day in Lander, WY with bigwall climber, Hayden Jamieson. Hayden and I both slumped into our chairs after escaping the 100 degree day outside and tried to gather ourselves for the interview, and that’s when … Continue reading "Enormocast 290: Hayden Jamieson …
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Road to 13a with Eric Hörst: Part IV
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Coach Eric Hörst is back to coach Ryan on his hardest project to date, his first 13a. This beta-packed conversation covers: What went right and wrong on Ryan's almost-send last season How to carry a project over from one season to the next The secret to being a successful route climber Aerobic vs Anaerobic endurance training The science of building…
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Meagan Martin: Olympics Predictions (who will podium?), Training like a Ninja Warrior, and What Happens When Comp Climbers Get Outdoors
1:26:28
1:26:28
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Elite climber Meagan Martin shares her struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - CHAPTERS: Struggle: 0:08:29 Training: 0:14:06 Nutrition: 0:24:34 Mental Game: 0:47:05 Purpose: 1:18:25 - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGG…
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On Episode 289 of the Enormocast, I connect to Nashville, TN to talk to climber and musician Smith Curry. Smith is one of the busiest session players in Music City on dobro and pedal steel. He also happens to be a veteran climber with big walls, first ascents, and alpine gnar under his harness-belt. Smith … Continue reading "Enormocast 289: Smith C…
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Tension Crew: Pro Clinic on System Board Training, Achieving Faster Progress, Training and Projecting Tips, and Building Sport Climbing Endurance (FULL)
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2:03:19
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In this Pro Clinic, the Tension Crew covers: History of system boards and board culture Overview of popular boards and their strengths/weaknesses TB2 and what sets it apart Beginner, Intermediate, and Advanced board tactics Utilizing adjustable angle and mirrored layout to speed up progression How to train sport climbing fitness on a board The best…
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Sam Watson: World’s Fastest Climber, Converting Strength to Power, Mindset Tips for Dealing with Pressure, and Olympics Preparation
1:18:56
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Elite climber Sam Watson shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - CHAPTERS: Struggle: 0:08:17 Training: 0:21:51 Nutrition: 0:37:34 Tactics: 0:49:28 Mental Game: 0:53:29 Purpose: 1:03:31 - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS…
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Enormocast 288: Don McGrath – The Vertical Mind Returns
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On Episode 288 of the Enormocast, I reunite with Don McGrath, the author of the book Vertical Mind. Don appeared nearly a decade ago on the podcast, and his book on the mindset of climbing has never left the conversion. Don has spent the last 10 years learning even more about overcoming the hurdles our … Continue reading "Enormocast 288: Don McGrat…
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Anna Hazelnutt | Crag Chat: Surprise Guest dr.climb, Dealing with Trolls, Enjoying Climbing While Injured, Yosemite Projects, and the Benefits of Comp-Style Climbing
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Anna Hazelnutt and Ryan Devlin are joined by surprise guest Davis (dr.climb) for a wild and thoughtful chat that covers: Anna’s work on the ultra-classic Yosemite 13d, Peace The shifting landscape of climbing sponsorships and ‘influencer’ deals Dealing with trolls What injury can teach us about why we love climbing Olympics, parkour-style climbing,…
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Aidan Roberts: Training Bulletproof Fingers and Shoulders, Mastering Mindset, and Sending Two New V17s
1:32:50
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Elite climber Aidan Roberts shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - CHAPTERS: Struggle: 0:07:24 Training: 0:17:20 Tactics: 0:55:21 Mental Game: 1:02:46 Purpose: 1:18:34 - ForceBoard: A better way to train fingers. Portabl…
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C4HP: Pro Clinic on Off-Season Finger Strength Training and Overall Strength Training
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In this Pro Clinic, Collin and Jesse from Camp 4 Human Performance cover: What "off-season" training should (and should NOT) look like Determining the adaptations we're seeking off-season Benefits of getting stronger from "toes to nose" How our age plays into our strength training plan Proven finger strength training protocol that takes ~20 mins pe…
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Enormocast 287: Mo Beck – A Certain Version of Fine
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On Episode 287 of the Enormocast, I connect with Paraclimbing champion, Mo Beck. Mo was born with one hand, and her parents were determined to make sure she was ready for challenges of life like any other kid. When Mo ran into a camp counselor that told her that she didn’t HAVE TO climb if … Continue reading "Enormocast 287: Mo Beck – A Certain Ver…
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Carlo Traversi: Mastering Movement, Getting Better Without Being Stronger, V16 and Beyond, and Seeking Struggle
1:55:56
1:55:56
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Elite climber Carlo Traversi shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - CHAPTERS: Struggle: 0:15:16 Training: 0:25:58 Nutrition: 0:44:50 Tactics: 0:55:32 Mental Game: 1:16:54 Purpose: 1:29:47 - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPON…
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Coach Charlie Schreiber: Reducing "Junk Mileage” On and Off the Rock, Replica Training, and Mental Performance Hacks
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Coach Charlie Schreiber of Paradigm Climbing joins to discuss: How to work with clients that have a busy schedule Junk milage of training and life Keeping up climbing fitness while traveling Creating replicas and training on them The Big Island Training harder than your proj Being happy with “just” progress Success is a state of mind Bonus Eps and …
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Enormocast 286: Didier Berthod – Facing the World (Part 1)
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On Episode 287 of the Enormocast, I connect through to America’s hat with Swiss crack-master, Didier Berthod. You might have heard about Didier from his recent send of Cobra Crack. The media mentions Didier disappearing from climbing for 10 years, returning to slay the Cobra, yada, yada, but that Didier’s completion of the Cobra has … Continue read…
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Enormocast Tweener: Didier Berthod – Facing the World (Part 2)
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In the early 2000s, Didier Berthod was the best crack climber in the world, then he dropped out of climbing and essentially disappeared from the world. When we left Didier Berthod in Facing the World Part 1, he had emerged from monastic life, contacted the daughter he had never seen, and returned to climbing. In … Continue reading "Enormocast Tween…
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Paige Claassen: Stronger Fingers, Endurance Hacks, Injury Prevention, and Balancing Climbing and Parenthood
1:11:03
1:11:03
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Elite climber Paige Claassen shares her struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - CHAPTERS: Struggle: 0:10:26 Training: 0:15:31 Nutrition: 0:26:26 Tactics: 0:40:18 Mental Game: 0:48:16 Purpose: 0:59:53 - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPON…
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Anna Hazelnutt | Crag Chat: Smith Rock Update, AI Theme Songs, Taking Falls, Feet Pics, How to Make $20M a Month, Climbing News
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1:21:44
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1:21:44
Anna Hazelnutt and Ryan Devlin go unscripted and unfiltered in this Crag Chat as they explore: Anna's Smith Rock tick list and updates AI-generated theme songs for the show Getting strong on a project but getting weaker as a climber Flying practice (the importance of taking falls) Feet pic update... and friendly competition How to make $20M a month…
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Dr Jared Vagy: Pro Clinic on Climber Injuries, Rehab, and Prevention
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In this Pro Clinic, Dr. Vagy covers the most common climber injuries, rehab, and prevention, including: Frequent shoulder injuries Simple exercises to strengthen the shoulder, build range-of-motion, and properly warm up before a session Why the elbow is a 'dumb joint' How to perform a simple self-assessment to determine what type of elbow issue you…
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Enormocast 285: Nico Favresse – Mad to Live
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On Episode 285 of the Enormocast, after long last, I connect with Belgian rock-climber and alpinist, Nico Favresse. Nico is certainly a contender for the most experienced expedition rock-climber of all time. Perhaps only rivalled by his ubiquitous partner, Sean Villanueva-O’Driscoll? Nevertheless, Nico is an all-arounder who has tackled the biggest…
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Jonathan Siegrist: Success vs Failure, Limit Projecting, Try Hard Tactics, and What Happens When It Doesn’t Come Together
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Elite climber Jonathan Siegrist is back on the show, and this time we dive deep into the concepts of success and failure in climbing, limit projecting, what happens when a climb doesn't come together... and how we can all learn from our struggles on rock to make our next go our best go. - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestru…
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LIVE CALL-IN | Tom Randall Coaches Climbers on How to Rest Better on Route, Overcome Grade Fear, Build Endurance on a Hangboard, and More!
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Coach Tom Randall is BACK, and this time we've got 5 climbers joining the party! Tom coaches climbers from a wide-range of backgrounds on their climbing issues, including: How to train for resting better on route Overcoming mental blocks of not feeling ready to push into the next grade When to shift from a performance phase to weight training phase…
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Beth Rodden: Epic FAs, Death-Defying Escapes, Mental Health, and Becoming a Weekend Warrior
1:25:19
1:25:19
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Elite climber Beth Rodden shares her struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - CHAPTERS: Struggle: 0:27:51 Training: 0:31:41 Nutrition: 0:38:43 Tactics: 0:48:44 Mental Game: 0:55:07 Purpose: 1:16:35 - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSOR…
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Nate Drolet: Pro Clinic on the 14 Barriers to Improving Technically as Climbers
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In this Pro Clinic, Nate covers 14 barriers that are holding us back from improving technically, including: Why climbing with straight arms is NOT more efficient When it’s good to make others’ beta your own The most important question to ask yourself when you fall The conflict between strength and skill The three things to focus on to get better RI…
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Tommy Caldwell: Adventuring with Alex Honnold, Biking to Alaska, Building Endurance, and Environmental Advocacy
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1:20:28
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Elite climber Tommy Caldwell is back on the show to talk about his latest epic adventure with Alex Honnold, how he's exploring the limits of human endurance, and the nexus of adventure and environmental advocacy. - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO L…
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Coach Justen Sjong: Perfection is NOT the Goal, Mental Tactics, Tapping into Breath, and Climbing Performance Hacks
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Climbing Coach Justen Sjong joins to discuss: Two types of climbers (engineer and artist) Tapping into breath as our engine The hidden superpower of being in sync with your belayer Identifying Technical vs Mental strengths / weaknesses Perfection is NOT the goal (but what is?) What our bodies do on the wall when we become scared to try How a rowing…
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Enormocast 284: Emma Twyford – Getting on With It
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On Episode 284 of the Enormocast, we connect across the pond to North Wales in the U.K. and into the living room of Emma Twyford. Emma is a pioneering woman in that rarified air of hard, desperate trad that only the old country can serve up. She is the first British woman to climb 9a … Continue reading "Enormocast 284: Emma Twyford – Getting on Wit…
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Enormocast 283: Clint Helander – To Live in Hearts We Leave Behind
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1:16:17
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On Episode 283 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a hotel in Munising, Michigan at the Michigan Icefest with Alaska-based alpinist, Clint Helander. What with the Chris Kalous Dance Party and the last call nightcap(s) at a bar literally called Whisky Dick’s, it had been a long night and an early morning for both … Continue reading "Enormocast 283: Cli…
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Live from the Beach: Listener Q&A, Project Update, Random Ramblings
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With ice cold beer in hand and waves crashing over the sand... I answer some burning listener questions spanning climbing, training, unicycles, donuts, and Tommy Caldwell. This might be a fun listen or a total waste of your time. Let me know! And I'll be back in the podcast/utility closet next week for a fresh (polished) episode. Cheers!…
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Anna Hazelnutt: Training Power, Climbing the Hardest Slabs, Mastering Beta, and Striving to Fail More
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1:33:22
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Elite climber Anna Hazelnutt shares her struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - CHAPTERS: Struggle: 0:09:39 Training: 0:19:54 Nutrition: 0:37:50 Tactics: 0:46:28 Mental Game: 0:58:06 Purpose: 1:17:50 - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPON…
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Enormocast 282: Natalia Grossman – The Tyranny of Expectations
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On Episode 282 of the Enormocast, I sit down with US Olympic qualifier, Natalia Grossman. That’s right, Natalia is headed to Paris to represent the US in Lead and Boulder combined (speed is separate this time around). But this moment was caught during a bit of down time for Natalia as she ramps up for … Continue reading "Enormocast 282: Natalia Gro…
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Nate Drolet: Pro Clinic on Rock Climbing Movement Analysis and Climbing Technique Drills
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This is the first of two Pro Clinics on Movement with Nate Drolet. In this episode Nate covers: New client consultation with Ryan Exploration of Ryan's strengths and weaknesses Analysis of movement and technique Shoe beta Simple drills to improve technique - This full Pro Clinic episode is brought to you at zero cost thanks to Patrons and Subscribe…
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Enormocast Tweener: Harvey Wright Returns with Patio Pacifica
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On this in-between episode of the Enormocast, Harvey Wright from Episode 222 returns to discuss his ongoing treatment and recovery for addiction. But more importantly, Harvey is here to talk about his new album, Patio Pacifica, written almost entirely while in a Vancouver treatment facility. Also, we talk about the rough and dirty years since … Con…
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Ben Mayforth: Campusing V12, Grip Strength for Climbing, Pre-Game Rituals, and the Climbing Community
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Elite climber Ben Mayforth shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - CHAPTERS: Struggle: 0:06:52 Training: 0:17:51 Nutrition: 0:29:50 Tactics: 0:37:01 Mental Game: 0:47:03 Purpose: 0:56:06 - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSO…
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Coach Lauren Abernathy: Climbing Movement Drills, Climbing Efficiency, and Multi-Sport Training
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Coach Lauren Abernathy of Good Spray Climbing joins to discuss: Using momentum to save energy Adding foot moves to make a sequence easier 3-step drill for technique When it’s a good thing to wreck yourself on the route The biggest mistake climbers make when they put a focus on technique How to reach further on the wall The art of letting things sli…
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Enormocast 281: Jon Hawk and Tye Liggins of Memphis Rox – Peace Above All
1:20:03
1:20:03
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On Episode 281 of the Enormocast, Jon Hawk and Tye Liggins from Memphis Rox join to discuss the mission of the famous pay-what-you-can gym, Memphis Rox, in the inner-city of Memphis, TN. Jon is director of operations, and Tye went from walk-in to head coach and course-setter. Memphis Rox, founded by Tom Shadyac in 2018, … Continue reading "Enormoca…
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Stefano Ghisolfi: Taking On the Hardest Climbs in the World, Olympic Training, the Grade Debate, and the Power of Fun
1:18:02
1:18:02
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1:18:02
Elite climber Stefano Ghisolfi shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - CHAPTERS: Struggle: 0:07:18 Training: 0:11:36 Nutrition: 0:31:25 Tactics: 0:37:34 Mental Game: 0:51:57 Olympics: 0:58:57 Purpose: 1:05:54 - BIG THANKS…
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Emily Harrington: Pro Clinic on Parenthood and Rock Climbing Performance
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In this Pro Clinic, Emily explores: Parenthood as one big expedition Struggling with fear and risk as she got back on the big walls Managing sleep deprivation like when she was on Mt Everest Parenting hacks for climbing with a kiddo in tow Sending 14a / 8b+ post-pregnancy Training strength AND endurance on a hang board in around 20 mins a day Balan…
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Natalia Grossman: Olympic Training, Climbing World Cup Ups and Downs, and Using Joy as a Performance Hack
1:07:02
1:07:02
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1:07:02
Elite climber Natalia Grossman shares her struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - CHAPTERS: Struggle: 0:06:37 Training: 0:08:34 Nutrition: 0:17:21 Tactics: 0:31:08 Mental Game: 0:40:48 Olympics: 0:51:12 Purpose: 0:56:22 - BIG THANKS…
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Enormocast 280: Taps 2024 – The Really Bollocks Edition
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2:23:32
On Episode 280 of the Enormocast we present the 2024 Taps edition of the Enormocast. This is the annual episode where we lay to rest traditions, foibles, and notions in climbing that are either sadly going to sleep never to reawaken, or should be put to bed for good. The Enormocast is joined by our … Continue reading "Enormocast 280: Taps 2024 – Th…
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Coach Ollie Torr: Training like Alex Honnold, Climbing Endurance Hacks, Beginner Plateaus, and Listener Questions
1:08:12
1:08:12
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1:08:12
Coach Ollie Torr of Lattice Training joins to discuss: How to adjust training when fighting a cold How much time off we can take before losing gains What energy system to top up right before taking a vacation Building power like Alex Honnold How to break through a beginner plateau The thing that might be more important than finger strength An easy …
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Enormocast 279: David Smart and Royal Robbins – Some Work of Noble Note
1:34:51
1:34:51
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1:34:51
On episode 279 of the Enormocast, we have an allt-ime double-header. First, David Smart joins from Toronto to talk about his life as a climber and his new book from The Mountaineers, Royal Robbins: The American Climber. Royal Robbins was one of the most influential climbers of all time, and David’s book is the most … Continue reading "Enormocast 27…
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Adam Ondra: Finger Training, Climbing Fast, Projecting Tips, Free Soloing, and Historical Downgrades
1:26:59
1:26:59
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1:26:59
Elite climber Adam Ondra shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Adam has 18 World Cup Gold medals,, is one of the best boulderers in the world with four V16 or 8C+ and 17 8C or V15 to his name. On sport, Adam has flashed up to 9a+ or 5.15a with Super Crackinette, he was the first to redpoint 5.15c …
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Hazel Findlay: Pro Clinic on Rock Climbing Performance Hacks, Mindset, Fear, and Flow
44:56
44:56
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44:56
This conversation has the power to not only change your climbing, but to change your life. In this Pro Clinic, Hazel explores: Fear of falling Expectations Social comparison / competition Fear of failure Performance Hacks that we can try TODAY to help reduce anxiety, access flow, perform better, and have a more joyful experience when we pull off th…
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Amity Warme on Cobra Crack: Lessons from Not-Sending, Route-Specific Training, Micro-Underfueling, and Doing Her Hardest Routes with a Ruptured Pulley
1:01:24
1:01:24
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1:01:24
Elite climber Amity Warme shares her process, struggles, and learnings as she projected (but hasn't yet sent) one of the hardest trad routes in the world, Cobra Crack. - Amity is a trad and big wall crusher, boasting ground-up ascents of El Nino, El Corazon, Golden Gate, and the Freerider routes of El Cap, plus other hard trad lines such as Book of…
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