Welcome to 'The Bad Beta Podcast;, a show where rock climbers talk about the controversial issues that the climbing industry doesn't want you to know. Mostly, we argue about Sport vs. Trad. Visit www.badbetapodcast.com for more.
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Episode # 21 - Boulder Dating App Redux
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Waaaaay back on Episode # 4 we came up with a dating app for climbers called, 'Bouldr'. Well, someone has expanded our idea by one letter and released a new dating app called 'Boulder'. We create a profile for Gas-Tonya and check out the app, while coming up with other dating apps so terrible, that maybe this time they won't get stolen. Sprinkled i…
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Episode # 20 - The Friends Reunion
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And we're back! This one is for the fans. Only fans.
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Episode # Covid-19 - How to Climb Furniture
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Well, well, well... It seems like a hundred new climbing podcasts have started up in the midst of the climbing quarantine crisis, and true to form, we thought we'd jump on the bandwagon the best way we know how; releasing an episode after months of silence. Steve is on Zoom, so apologies for his sound quality from his bunker in the woods. On this e…
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Episode # 17 - Safety Third - Christmas for Rock Climbers
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For our very special Christmas episode, we discuss our recent climbing trips to the Red and the Creek. Alisha couldn't make it for this one, but she's with us in spirit, and in Sound Board form. We start off by talking about the closure of Roadside Crag in the Red River Gorge. The podcast turns dark and somber with a discussion about accidents, dea…
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Episode # 16 - Building a Trad Rack - A Climber's Guide
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And we're back! Now that climbing season is drawing to a close... We decided to release the next episode. You can stop asking now! We start the show with some stories about Indian Creek, including snakes, Pamela Pack, and Aid-Climbing Supercrack!! We try to come to a consensus about trad gear, and which gear the budding young trad climber should bu…
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Episode # 15.5 - The Lost Tape B-Side
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This week we decided to show you some behind the scenes of why our podcasts are so long (you have no idea). These are some of the B-Side clips that we end up cutting from the show because they don't 'fit' the main theme of the show.... rock climbing. There's a lot of talk about seances, Mr. Rogers, and most of all.... Aquaman himself, Jason Momoa. …
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Episode # 15 - Tight Climbing Shoes and Other Bad Beta
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On this week’s episode Alex Handhold takes a break from talking about his epic solo to discuss his foundation, Peter Croft keeps asking us to throw the ball, and Steve discusses an encounter with Cosplayers while ice climbing. We argue about whether or not beginner climbing shoes are useful when you first start climbing (Matt is alone in thinking a…
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Episode # 14 - The Dawn Wall and Booty: Redux
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On this week’s episode we finally talk about the Dawn Wall - The Tommy Caldwell Story. How many times have we seen this movie before?? We talk about what it means to be a Dirt Bag in 2019, and if it's even possible. Spoiler: If you have a Sprinter van, you are not a Dirt Bag. We do a follow up to our booty episode when Anna asks, is this booty? Thi…
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Episode # 13 - The Climbing Sound Board
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And we're back! On this week’s episode the gang gets a sound board. Not much more to say, other than the fact that we've devolved into a local morning radio show with fart noises and Ondra screams. Not surprising, the conversations are TOTALLY BETTER with sound FX, movie quotes, and constant interruptions. Can you identify all of the sounds we used…
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Episode # 12 - The Scarpa Photo Contest
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On this week’s episode we dive into a large number of important topics. First of all, Steve tries to defend the idea of hiring a guide to learn new skills, brush up on old ones, and generally how not to die. We talk about the spread of climbing myths and in an age of instant global information, how climbers still learn bad ideas. Matt and Anna disc…
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Episode # 11 - Listener Mail Bag!
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The gang is back together! Thanks to everyone for your kind words and e-mails. As per typical Bad Beta style, we will try to start recording episodes on a more regular schedule now that the four of us are in the same time zone again. This weeks episode is a special "Mail Bag" show where we answer some of your questions and e-mails. There were a sur…
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Episode # 10 - Taboo! Climbers Edition & The Mikes pt. 2
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Special Bonus Episode! Well... the second half of the conversation with the legendary Mike and Mike. Steve and Alisha are now BACK! We will be back to regular programming shortly, but in the meantime, please enjoy more drama with the Mikes (who will definitely be back in future episodes). We start out with a 'Shit We've Seen at the Crag', then play…
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Episode # 9 - 4 Mics and 2 Mikes
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We're back! Well.... half of us are. Steve and Alisha are still halfway around the world, climbing shirtless on some beach, probably missing us terribly. So, in the interim, we're still auditioning temporary replacements. So far, the only two people naive enough to say yes have been the Mikes. This turned out to be a long silly conversation, so we'…
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Episode # 8 - How to Poop at the Crag
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On today's episode we reveal the 2 winners of the Sublime Climbing brush contest! We start the conversion off with the latest news in Big Brother, before discussing ideas for a new climbing based 90's era sitcom. A quick table read shows us that we still have a lot of kinks to iron out for a script. The conversation spirals into absurdity with Anna…
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Episode # 7 - A Van-Cast from the Crag
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We know it's been a while but... the weather has been really good, and we know a couple climbers with a sail boat. In today's episode we found ourselves on location at a campground near Lions Head, Ontario, during a climbing trip. We recorded on a wet morning before going out climbing, in front of a live studio audience (of one.) Anna tries to tell…
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Episode # 6 - How to Behave Like a Climber
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Sorry for the delay, we have been out climbing. In today's episode we talk about the code of conduct for climbers, forged long ago by the great Bodhi from Point Break. Can we all agree that there's no reason to shout encouragement up at a climber? Imagine hearing "C'mon, yeah, c'mon, fight, don't give up, yeaaaaaah, allez!" during a Tiger Woods put…
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Episode # 5 - The Naked Cam Dress Photo
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To everyone who suggested we try and stay on topic, we're sorry in advance! Today on the show we talk about climbing festivals, specifically the Beaver Valley Climbing Festival here in Ontario, Canada. We talk about the motivation to put up new routes, as well as how and why routes get 'chopped'. Anna talks about the naked cam dress photo she poste…
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Episode # 4 - Dating and Climbing
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Episode 4! Today on the show we have a special guest (our friend Dustin), who provides insights into the struggle of trying to find a partner who is also a climber, in a world where male climbers still outnumber females by what feels like 100 to 1. We may have accidentally come up with a new dating App called 'Bouldr', exclusively for climbers livi…
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Episode # 3 - The Sport vs. Trad Debate
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Today on the show we finally give you people a little insight into who we are, and under what authority we speak (almost none). Matt is under attack trying to explain why 'adventure' climbing is the only real climbing, while the rest of the crew defends sport climbing and everyone's right to call themselves a climber. Although the argument gets hea…
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Episode # 2 - Booty, booty, booty.. and John Long.
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Woahhhh, episode 2! To those who thought we wouldn't make it this far... you were almost right. Hopefully, we've cleaned up the audio from the 'pilot' episode, and learned how to talk into the mics better. In this episode we talk about the new Kickstarter for something called a 'Gumball Biner', for the sport climber who still can't seem to clip the…
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Episode # 1 - Red River Gorge
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This is our pilot episode. A little rough around the edges, but we talk about everything from climbing magazines, to what to expect on your first climbing trip to the Red River Gorge. Our hosts: Matthew Sapiecha, @annaoutdoors, Steve Andrew, and our guest Alisha.
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